9 TO 6 CDT
GMT minus 5 hours
Monday thru Friday
Do not call on
Sat. Sun. please
HIT AND MISS STROKES,
|IF YOU BREAK OFF A JACK BUTTON SCREW: My supplier has come out with a repair part is you do break off the jack button regulating screw. It is a genius little thing. ON THE ACTION PARTS PAGE, look for part number 24476.|
With the tool removed, strike the key, and hold it down. Does the jack now jerk out from under the hammer butt after thrusting? Is there about one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch between the top of the jack and the hammer butt when you strike and hold down the key? If so, don't adjust any further. If not give it another half turn clockwise.
Do this to all the keys that have the "ba-bang syndrome." Even adjust those that seem to be trying to do it.
DO YOU HAVE A KIMBALL CONSOLE?
Kimball used brass jack springs in their actions in the past on console pianos. The brass gets brittle and the spring collapses. This will result in the jack failing to reset, and you will hit a blow, and you cannot repeat the blow for a while.
You need to replace the jack springs. Open the piano until the action is fully exposed and check.
Reamer to clean the old glue out of the bottom hole in the wippen.
If, after a couple of turns, the jack is still hanging up under the hammer butt, you may have overly worn back check felts which are not catching the stump of the hammer butt and buck skin there. Carefully bend the back check forward a little bit, supporting the whippen with one hand. The safest way to bend the back check wire is with two pliers. NEVER do this first. It is an act of desperation where actions are very worn. If the back check felt piece is worn very thin, you can order a set from me. DO NOT improvise at this point. Find Back check repair in the Table of Contents for instructions.
There is a piece of buckskin on the hammer stump which catches on the back check. Compare the center of the piano with the extreme ends. Are the buckskins in the middle worn very thin or completely missing? If so, you should replace them with real buckskin from our Catalog in the Felt Parts section. The back checks are not grabbing well if they are catching on the wood where buck skin has worn away. To make the repair, see the Table of Contents for Buckskin Replacement.
As always, if you have done all these steps and the hammers still hit double
blows, ba-bang, your tuner must take over since the problem is too tricky for
must folks. But do have a peek into the very heart of the action for junk hung
up between parts.
Sometimes the hammer plays, and other times it feels like the action let your key stroke miss the target. This could simply be caused by humidity. Refer back to Section A. and loosening key felts.
However; Your problem could be that the jack is not tucking back under the hammer when the key is up and at rest. First, check the coil spring under the butt of the jack. Is it out of its upper recess? If so, put it back. If it is broken you need to order a dozen and replace any suspect springs. We sell these in the Action Parts area of the Catalog.
Next, pull the jack back, and let it return forward. If it is sluggish, the jack spring may be broken or weak. Replace it. I have seen improvising here, but it better be very much like the original to work right. You can order jack springs from me. They are cheap. To make the repair, see the Table of Contents for Replacing jack springs.
If the spring seems OK, and the adjustment is right, you may have a jack which has tightened at the pin hinge point. Spray it with aerosol silicone, which you can buy at any hardware store. Hit the hinge point of the hammer while you are at it. If this loosens the jack, do all of the jacks and hammer butt hinge points.
If you have a Kimball or other console with brass springs, you
should replace them all. They were a disaster and will cause trouble forever.
You can order jack springs from me.
When you look into the trouble spot, do you see that the jack has come out of its mounting point in the whippen? Is it even missing? Look into the action, and you may see that it has fallen into the works. See the Table of Contents for "Replacing a loose jack."
After you have done all the above, is there still a problem? Before you call the tuner, eyeball the line of parts along the action. Does the offending part look like it is slightly forward throughout the whole serious of parts for that note. If so, look at the key levers to see if the offending key lever is higher or lower than the rest? If so, there may be junk under the key levers. Go back to Section A of this chapter and open your piano clear up, and remove the keys. You will very likely find junk under the keys holding some of them up too high.